If you are looking for beautiful rocks, verticality and physical challenges, the Luberon is made for you !
Rock climbing in Luberon ?
Thanks to the local geology, the Natural park of Luberon offers a large range of cliffs, of climbing styles and difficulties. The quality of the rock and the mediterranean climate are ideals for rock climbing all year long.
Buoux, a page of history
Among the numerous cliffs of Provence, Buoux (You shall pronounce the final « x ») is the local jewel.
At first Buoux was equiped in the late 50’s by local climbers. It became one of the top cliffs in France, in the eighties with routes opened by the best climbers at the time : Jean-Claude Droyer, Patrick Edlinger, Jacky Godoffe...
Most of the French and European climbers came to fight with the major level 8 routes. Some weeks around 1000 climbers were visiting the cliff.
Nowadays fewer people go there, however it remains a fabulous site, with a very specific rock.
You can climb there almost all year long.
Note that there are only a few routes under level 5c.
Its characteristics :
About 400 climbing routes
Height : 70 et 130m
Level : 4b à 8c+
© Tristan.b Visual | Créateur de vidéos
Pont Julien in Bonnieux
Located on the banks of Calavon river, not far from the famous Roman bridge Pont Jullien, it is an ideal spot for beginners and/or families. 15 minutes walk from the parking lot.
Height: 20m max
Level : 3 à 8b+
Rocher des Abeilles in Saint-Martin-de-Castillon
Also located on the banks of the river Calavon between Apt et Saint Martin de Castillon, the « rock of the bees » can be reached by bike by the greenway.
Height : 15 à 20m
Level : 4a à 7a+
South and east orientations
Topoguides can be find in Apt at the tourist office or at the local bookshop.
Escala’ Buoux : Highlight of the calendar
This very special event take place every 2 years in Buoux. Not to be missed, the next edition will be held from 26 to 29 may 2022 !
INTERNATIONAL MEETING OF CLIMBING
Escala'Buoux | Vidéo archives 2018 -
Other spots for rock climbing around
Provence offers many options for the rock climbers. This is a non exhaustive list.
Combe de l'Ermitage à Villes-sur-Auzon
A well preserved tiny valley among oak trees and cedars. Topoguide can be purchased at the Offices of Tourisme in Saul, Monieux or Villes-sur-Auzon.
About 80 climbing routes
Height : 15 à 30 m
Level : 4c à 8a
Orientation : South / East South
Beautifull spot that will remind you of Buoux because of the « molasse ». Same kind of limestone but in different climbing style.
About 400 climbing routes
Level: 5b à 8a
Very famous among the climbers. Les dentelles offers plenty of routes. Reminder : In the easiest routes, the rock might be polished.
About 800 climbing routes
Height : 80m
Level : 53c à 8b
Orientation : North and South
If this montain is famous for biking it is also possible to climb in the neighbourhood : la Combe obscure (Bédoin), la carrière de Maupas (Malaucène), les trois rivières (Entrechaux) and more…
Topoguide : Escalades autour du Ventoux
Climbing is more and more famous. Indoor climbing has also developped last 10 years in France. Bouldering is very playfull and is a great way to strengthen technics and muscles.
Some climging gyms around :
82 Route de Montfavet
T. +33 (0)4 90 88 19 92
Find all the official information on climbing website of the French Mountain and Climbing Federation